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Ideas & Advice

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DIY & Home Improvement

Getting your home renovated? Or moving into a new apartment? Summer is a great time to get your home renovated while you spend an enjoyable vacation with your family. So make your home the coolest thing on the block this summer with these home improvement ideas. With some simple changes to your rooms, you can up your style quotient several notches! 


The Living Room

Your living room is the first place your guests enter from the hot environment outside. It is also the place where you unwind and relax, whether by watching a great movie with your family or lounging with your favorite book in a cozy corner. A living room must look spacious and be comfortable, especially during the hot season. So, what home improvement ideas can you use this summer?

  • Paint your walls with light colors so your walls don’t absorb too much heat.
  • Change the furniture upholstery. Switch your sofa and chair covers to a light color to bring an airy and light feel to your home.
  • Build a color theme by selecting the same color for your walls and furniture. A designer ceiling that complements the lighting from your windows gives the room a great finishing touch.


The Bedroom

When you spend one-third of your lifetime sleeping, you want to make sure that you get the bedroom interiors right. A bedroom home renovation can be the perfect way to surprise your wife when she’s gone to meet her parents for summer. There are plenty of home improvement ideas you can choose from to bring coolness to your bedroom:

  • Light curtains! Not just in color, but fabric too. Picking a light curtain allows you to block the harsh sunlight without darkening the room completely and at the same time, allows some cool air to enter the room.
  • Choose from several false ceiling designs to renew the ambiance of your bedroom. It’s a great idea to surprise your wife with a makeover and designer ceilings are the new way to restyle your home. You might want to scout around for ideas and consult her relatives or friends before going ahead.
  • Reduce the number of wall decor items you have in your bedroom. This helps your bedroom look minimalistic, which is perfect when you’re trying to make space


The Kids’ Room

The summer holiday is super fun time for your kids. You can create a wonderful childhood experience by giving them an exciting kids’ room to grow up in.

  • Install a fun and fancy designer ceiling that captures your kids’ imagination.
  • To prevent children from scribbling on the wall out of boredom, prop on some wall decor. Removable wall decals and stickers are a great choice.
  • If your children are older, you can help them create wall decor by encouraging their photography or art. A wall picture or a collage of their art collection will look fantastic!

Ceilings don’t have to be just a flat, white painted space. So if there’s one thing that you’d want to change in your home this summer, a designer ceiling is an opportunity not to be missed. Apart from looking stunning, they add space, curiosity and definition to break the monotony of décor. What’s more, they keep your homes cool.

For help with your home, we have a wide range of How To guides that offer step-by-step instructions as well as helpful hints and tips.
Our buyer's guides offer practical help and advice on selecting the right products to complete your home improvement projects.

Construction Chemicals

When installing tiles, the layout of expansion joints in the sub-layer and in walls must be respected. Expansion joints at least as wide as the existing joints must be created in correspondence with structural joints in the substrate. Where there are two or more surfaces in different materials (such as between reinforced concrete and brickwork) it is important to include expansion joint. It is also important to form joints around the perimeter of fixed elements of the load-bearing structure such as walls, steps, columns, etc. 

Make 1 cm distribution joints if particularly large surface areas are to be laid, dividing the surface as follows:

a) on substrates subject to movement or flexure, form squares approximately 9-12 m²;
b) on stable surfaces the joints may be formed approximately every 16-25 m²;
c) install tiles leaving a gap of approximately 5 mm between walls, columns, edges, corners, etc. 

The width of the joint is determined according to the thickness and size of the tiles, the characteristics of the substrate, the area of use and the loads present. The sealant will only function correctly in terms of water-tightness and duration if the joints are the correct size. 

As a general rule, joints must be sealed according to the indications in the following table:


Tiles may only be installed in internal areas on this type of substrate and only after treating the surface with a coat of PRIMER G diluted 1:2 with water. When installing tiles in external areas, a layer of render made from PLANITOP FAST 330 reinforced with galvanized mesh must be previously applied. If tiles are to be installed on particularly deformable substrates, such as metal or wood, each single case must be carefully assessed by QCON Technical Services.

Gypsum substrates must be perfectly dry (maximum residual moisture content 0.5 %), sufficiently sound and free of all traces of dust. It is very important that this type of substrate is treated with a penetrating primer and that tiles are only installed when the primer is perfectly dry. This type of application is only suitable for internal areas

Plaster/ Render must be sufficiently cured. If a ready mixed product is used, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. In all cases, when installing tiles on external surfaces, the tear strength of cement-based render must be at least 1 N/mm².

It is very important to know the composition of the substrate before commencing installation. The suitability of a substrate for this type of installation must be checked beforehand. As specified by current standards substrates must always be:

  1. sound with no cracks;
  2. cured and dimensionally stable;
  3. strong (strong and resistant enough for the loads expected and the area of use);
  4. dry; clean and free of loose parts (dust, grease, oil, wax, paint, form-release compound and any other material which could affect adhesion);
  5. perfectly flat 


Screeds must be cured sufficiently: the curing time before installing tiling is around 7-10 days per centimeter of thickness. The curing time when installing tiles on conventional screeds, therefore, may be particularly long (in certain cases more than one month). The screed must be compact and homogenous through its entire thickness and any cracks in the screed must be monolithically sealed with epoxy resins or epoxy adhesive. 


waiting times before installing tiles may be reduced considerably by using special binders or ready-mixed, normal-setting, quick-drying mortar or rapid-setting and drying mortar. Tiles may be installed on these types of a substrate after just  4hours in case of rapid-setting and drying mortar and 24 hours in case of normal-setting, quick-drying mortar

The adhesive must always be applied using the double-buttering technique, that is, the adhesive must be applied on both the substrate and on the back of the tile using a spreader with notches that guarantee the back of the tile is almost completely wetted. Double-buttering is necessary and indispensable to avoid problems caused by gaps in the back of the tiles which, in the case of external tiling, could lead to rainwater collecting and, in freezing weather, create stresses that could cause the tiles to be broken or become detached. Double-buttering is also necessary to distribute stresses more evenly over a wider area, which are generated by differential movements between the tiling and the substrate due, for example, to variations in temperature in the case of external tiling. 

Once the tiles have been installed, they must then be tapped all over the surface to prevent the formation of air pockets between the back of the tile and the substrate. It is particularly important that this step is carried out on external tiling to prevent stresses being generated by water vapor that forms during temperature variations.

The handling of large format tiles should be done with great care and should be carried out by at least two people using special tools and equipment, both while handling the tiles while they are still wrapped and during any cutting, drilling and installation operations. Special care is required because it is easy to bend and even break large format tiles if they are not handled and lifted correctly. Because of the sheer size of the tiles, always make sure beforehand that there is enough room and space on site to manoeuvre them easily. It is recommended to bring the boxes and crates containing the tiles as close as possible to the installation area to reduce the distance you have to carry them as much as possible. Once the tiles have been removed from their packaging, care must be taken when putting them in positioning by resting the long side of the tiles on the ground at an angle of 30° to the support. Pay particular attention to the corners of the tiles to avoid chipping or breaking them during handling. To facilitate handling the tiles, it is recommended to carry and install them with runners and frames with suction cups to keep them more rigid and limit any twisting or bending. There are two types of suction cups available, the traditional type and those with an in-built pump. The latter type is more secure and provides a better grip and the vacuum in the suction cup can be re-established using the pump, even after a certain period of time. Always make sure a good vacuum has been created between the lifting device and the surface of the tile. It is recommended to clean the surface of the tile and the suction cups with a damp sponge to get a better grip.

There are various sizes and thicknesses of large format tiles currently available on the market, with some formats reaching dimensions of up to 3.2 m x 1.6 m and slim tiles with thicknesses ranging from as low as 3 mm up to 12 mm. The technique used for the correct handling, substrate preparation and installation is the same for both slim tiles and large format tiles. 

Basic rules for correct installation 

When installing large format tiles the most appropriate adhesive must be chosen in order to ensure they remain perfectly bonded over the years, prevent deformation in the tiles and guarantee the maximum reliability wherever they are installed (on walls or floors and internally or externally). 

1. The first step when installing tiles is to make sure the substrate has no cracks and that it is dry, well cured and even, clean and flat.
2. Before applying the adhesive, make sure the back of the tile is clean and there is no ceramic or magnesium dust present. If necessary clean the back of the tile with a damp sponge dipped in a mixture of water and acid detergent. The spreader to use for applying the adhesive must be chosen according to the type of substrate material. It is recommended to use a notched spreader with sloping notches to apply the adhesive on the substrate to get better distribution, whereas the spreader used to apply the adhesive on the back
3. To apply and spread the adhesive on the back of the tile, we suggest using a spreader with 3 mm pitch square notches. The adhesive must be applied in straight lines parallel to the short side of the tile to reduce the distance traveled by air being pushed out. When spreading adhesive on the substrate, on the other hand, it is recommended to use a spreader with sloping notches with a pitch of at least 10 mm, depending on the flatness of the substrate. Using a spreader with sloping notches forces the trails of adhesive between the notches to fold over each other and this domino effect helps fill all the gaps and reduces the risk of entraining air bubbles into the bed of adhesive to a minimum. After applying an initial thin layer of adhesive to remove any dust on the substrate, the adhesive must then be spread on the substrate in a straight line in the same direction as the adhesive applied on the back of the tile.

1. A spreader with sloping notches to spread the adhesive on the substrate and with square notches to spread the adhesive on the back of the tile.
2. The adhesive is spread in the same direction on the back of the tile and on the substrate.

Grout lines are particularly important when installing large format tiles because – they reduce the effect of out of flatness between the tiles; – they considerably reduce the modulus of elasticity and, therefore, the rigidity of the tiling: in fact, when tiles are installed and butted against each other. As a result, a surface with grout lines is able to follow the differential movements between the substrate and the tiling caused by settling in the structure, hygrometric shrinkage, thermal expansion, etc., thus helping prevent the generation of dangerous stresses that could potentially cause detachment of the tiles. 

1. Tiles must be installed with grout lines at least 2 mm wide.
2. Apart from following the layout of structural joints, distribution joints must also be included. When installing tiles on internal surfaces, perimeter deformation joints and distribution joints must be created every 25 m². When installing tiles on external surfaces, the surface must be divided into pitch areas of no more than 9-12 m².
3. Choosing the right adhesive is fundamental in guaranteeing that a tiled surface remains sound and reliable over the years. In order to choose the most appropriate adhesive, it is important to determine at the offset exactly which type of tiles are to be installed, the dimensions of the tiles, the substrate on which they are to be installed, their area of use, etc. It is also necessary to take into consideration that the almost zero absorption rate of porcelain, along with the inclusion of strengthening mesh where prescribed, imposes the use of class C2 adhesives according to EN 12004 standards. For medium formats it is preferable to use deformable adhesives from class S1 according to EN 12004, while for large formats it is strongly recommended to use highly deformable products from class S2 according to EN 12004. When working in hot climates and during bad weather (strong winds, etc.) in particular, it is recommended to use class “E” adhesives (with extended open time) according to EN 12004. In all cases, tiles must be installed while the adhesive is still wet, or within its “open time”, in order to guarantee sufficient transfer of adhesive onto the back of the tile. When installing tiles in the winter or in cold climates, it is preferable to use rapid setting class “F” adhesives according to EN 12004

The grouting is cleaned by using a small amount of water and an abrasive pad (such as Scotch-Brite) followed by a firm cellulose sponge, taking care not to remove the grout. Unlike cementitious grouts, floor and wall tiles grouted with epoxy mortar must be cleaned while the grout is still “wet” and, if necessary, more water needs to be used to clean the tiles so that all traces of the epoxy grout are completely removed.




The MasterRoc product range is designed to be a single source for all of our customers’ underground construction (tunneling and mining) needs.

  1. Sprayed concrete performance enhancers including: accelerators, fibers, slump retainers, and plasticizers 
  2. Sprayable bonded waterproofing membranes that form a unique and integral part of composite tunnel lining designs.
  3. Injection and membrane technologies delivering safety, economy and performance to the mining and tunneling industries.
  4. Leading range of chemical technologies that ensures the safe and economical operation of tunnel boring machines.

The MasterSeal portfolio of hand and spray-applied waterproofing, joint sealants, fluid-applied air-water resistive barriers and deck membranes are formulated to stop water leakages and moisture ingression in a variety of new and existing structures. MasterSeal versatile, market-leading and innovative technologies are suitable for waterproofing all types of buildings including car parks, traffic decks, industrial sites, water management facilities for potable water and wastewater, pipes and below ground structures. 

Designed for use behind all claddings and at rough window treatments, MasterSeal AWB assemblies create a seamless air/water-resistive barrier and flashing system for all walls on your project. Air barriers, by their nature, must be continuous, with flexible and airtight connections to adjacent systems. 

The MasterTile product family under the Master Builders Solutions brand from BASF is a group of high quality, versatile cementitious, epoxy and dispersion-based tile fixing systems that are engineered (or designed) for fixing ceramic tile and natural stone in a diverse range of sectors. MasterTile product systems are designed to match the specific needs of each customer, application and sector, where speed of application and fast return to service are essential.

The MasterTile system of products is a flexible and effective solution that addresses and overcomes the specific problems associated with tiles, natural stone installation and swimming pool tiling. The MasterTile system of products minimises the water exposure of natural stones and agglomerates tiles from the screed, adhesive & grout, to avoid curling, discoloration and efflorescence. At the same time, the system provides an excellent bond between substrate and tile along with a screed system that is highly impact resistant, ensuring no cracking in the installation.

MasterFlow is the industry’s leading range of grouting solutions from BASF that are specially formulated to deliver high-strength structural stabilization. MasterFlow products provide superior strength, durability and precision alignment even in the most demanding of environments. MasterFlow grouts are capable of handling tensile, shear, compressive and dynamic forces, and ensure effective bearing-load distribution when grouting base plates and machinery bases. Zero shrinkage and resistance to fatigue and vibrations are paramount to the MasterFlow line of cementitious and epoxy grouting products.

Precision Grouts - High-precision, non-shrink cementitious or epoxy grouts are specifically engineered for void and duct grouting, chemical anchoring, precision machinery and element alignment.

1. Concrete Strengthening - MasterBrace composite strengthening system restores damaged concrete to its original load-bearing capacity, and can increase its strength and structural performance.
2. Concrete Repair - Master Emaco’s primers, repair mortars and fairing coats regain the structure’s original strength and durability and protect against corrosion.
3. Crack Repair – MasterInject injection resins fill and seal cracks and voids, re-establishing the structural integrity and protecting against further deterioration.

MasterProtect - Rebar corrosion protection and surface protection.
MasterEmaco - Surface, structural and traffic repair mortars provide durability and protection against corrosion.
MasterInject - Crack repair and bonding; injection resins fill and seal cracks and voids,re-establishing the structural integrity and protecting against further deterioration.
MasterBrace - Composite strengthening systems for concrete restore damaged concrete while increasing its load-bearing capacity.


Ucrete industrial flooring is an advanced polyurethane flooring technology for harsh environments. Demonstrates extraordinarily high resistance to mechanical, chemical and thermal stress, retaining its integrity at temperatures of up to 130°C. Has been proven for more than 40 years to meet the most stringent hygiene and cleanliness requirements. Ucrete is widely used in the food and beverage, chemical and pharmaceutical industries to provide long-lasting flooring solutions in aggressive environments.

Ucrete is cost-effective because it is long-lasting, quick and practical to install and meets all the needs of modern processing industries. Ucrete is also certified for use in Halal controlled food preparation and production areas


Fast application and curing

Even at low temperatures. Specifications are available that are fully serviceable after only 5 hours at 10°C, making it ideally suited for refurbishment work.


Excellent impact and wear resistance. Many 20–30 years sold Ucrete floors in aggressive environments are still in service.

Slip resistant flooring

Different grading for specific demands.


HACCP certified, it is hygienic as it can be cleaned to same level as stainless steel. Certified with the Eurofins Indoor Air Comfort Gold standard for low emissions, it's non-tainting and not smelling, meaning no delays in restarting operations.

Temperature resistant

Withstands spillages up to 150°C depending upon specification as well as freezer temperatures to -40°C


Even during application in food handling areas.

Moisture tolerant 

Can be installed onto 7-day old concrete without the need for special primers, helping to maintain program on fast track projects.

Chemical resistant 

From strong acids to alkalis, fats, oils and solvents which can rapidly degrade other types of resin flooring.


Conductive properties to control undesired static electricity.


Durable materials and low VOC emissions.

Fields of application 

Ucrete meets all the needs for food and facilities:

Ucrete is the perfect solution for other facilities:

Industrial kitchens










Water bottling


Poultry and fish processing


Ready meals and drinks production


Cold rooms


Have flooring problems in your facility? Need flooring solutions for your new project? Our flooring specialists will be happy to advise you. 

MasterTop’s outstanding polyurethane flooring products excel in design flexibility, elasticity, crack and scratch resistance and are exceptionally tough. Ideal for public, commercial and retail buildings as well as healthcare and educational facilities, polyurethane flooring is completely seamless and makes an attractive, hygienic, easily cleanable and durable floor that is pleasant to walk on.

MasterTop’s line of epoxy flooring products is commonly used in factories and warehouses due to their significant mechanical strength and resistance to corrosive liquids such as chemicals, oils, chlorides and fuels.

MasterTop cementitious coatings – economical hard cementitious toppings and dry shake floors that are based on sand, special cement, color pigments and hard aggregates. They feature extremely high mechanical resistance and therefore are well suited for factories and warehouses, giving outstanding cost-effective solutions for new build projects.MasterTop cementitious coatings


The MasterTop product family under the Master Builders Solutions brand from BASF is a group of versatile dry shake, cementitious, epoxy and polyurethane-based flooring systems that are suitable for decorative or industrial uses in a diverse range of sectors.

Elastic Joint Sealant Calculations

a - width of joint

b - depth of joint

from 0 to 4 [mm]

increase the width of the joint

from 5 to 9 [mm]

b = a

from 10 to 20 [mm]

b = 10 [mm]

from 21 to 40 [mm]

b = a/2[mm]

greater than 40 [mm]

reduce the width of the joint

To set the depth of the joint and prevent sealant adhering to the bottom, insert QCON Backer Rod, closed-cell, extruded foam polyethylene cord, supplied in rolls in various lengths according to the diameter of the cord, down into the joint.

 mapei sealant


Resilience, a mechanical property that allows these types of material to deform so they can absorb impact loads or deformations without breaking.

Strong, dry and flat: the main features you should focus on.

The first one is high mechanical strength.


Because most resilient materials do not distribute the loads acting on the floor. The forces pressing down on the surface of resilient floorings are transferred almost directly to the substrate. It isn’t unusual to notice the marks (albeit temporary) left by desks and chairs on PVC flooring. The weight of these objects acts directly on the screed and skim coat under the flooring.

This is why, according to current standards, the compressive strength of the screed must be a minimum of 15 N/mm2 for floors subjected to pedestrian traffic and 30 N/mm2 for other types of traffic

The second one is a low level of residual moisture.

Even though this is a common requirement for all substrates and for different types of floor and wall coverings, it becomes even more important in the case of resilient materials. Why? Because PVC and rubber, for example, are essentially impermeable. If the level of moisture in the substrate is too high, they will swell or detach from the surface.
According to current standards, a carbide hygrometer should be used to measure the level of residual moisture in the screed. Going further into detail, the level of residual moisture (R.M.) should be ≤ 2% for cementitious screeds and screeds made from special binders, ≤ 1.7% for heated screeds, ≤ 0.5% for anhydrite (gypsum-based) screeds and ≤ 0.2% for gypsum-based heated screeds

The third one is flatness.

Taking into consideration the characteristics mentioned above, and considering the compact thickness of resilient materials, if any imperfections or irregularities in the substrate are not eliminated, they show up quite clearly on the surface of the flooring. Flatness, therefore, must be guaranteed by taking special care when making the screed and the prescriptions for installing resilient materials must be adhered to.

A practical way of leveling off the surface of a screed and making it flat is to apply a skimcoat. Skim coats are generally made from high-strength fast-drying cementitious mortars, often with self-leveling properties (such as ULTRAPLAN MAXI by Mapei).

While the three requirements above are particularly important they are, alas, not the only ones. All those working in this sector know only too well that curing, thickness, compactness, cleanliness and other factors all play their part in the successful outcome of a job.

After a minimum period of 3 weeks sand:cement screeds can be moisture tested and prepared to receive the required preparatory productss.
Mapei ULTRABOND ECO VS90 PLUS, ULTRABOND ECO 4 LVT and Mapei ULTRABOND ECO MS 4 LVT are all suitable for high temperature areas.
Providing the surface of the plywood is clean and free of all dust/contamination either Mapei ECO PRIM GRIP or Mapei ECO PRIM T plus applied neat.

Surface Care Solutions

Concrete and Cement grout

Concrete floors, and cement grout, are among the most easily stained materials because they are so highly absorbent.
To clean oily, fatty or greasy stains off a concrete floor, we recommend using NOSPOT stain remover. 

How to clean concrete with NOSPOT

Spray NOSPOT directly onto the oily stain, allow it to dry for a few minutes, then remove the resulting white powder with a brush. Wipe over with a damp cloth. If the surface was waxed, reapply the finish.

Protecting concrete from stains

Once the surface is clean, we recommend protecting it against staining with BETON* garage floor treatment. 

Protecting grout from stains

To protect cement grout (including grout with additives) from staining, we recommend using FUGAPROOF joint protection treatment. 

Porcelain and ceramic

Deep cleaning and degreasing a ceramic or porcelain floor

It is always best to deep clean porcelain or ceramic floors once or twice a year, especially in the kitchen, where oily and fatty stains are common, and outdoors floors, which are more easily stained.
To clean oily and fatty stains off a porcelain floor, we recommend PS87 PRO degreasing detergent.

Degreasing the floor with PS87PRO couldn't be easier: dilute the product in water (half a litre of PS87PRO for 10 litres of water), and apply it to the surface. Leave it to act for 4-5 minutes, then use a brush or floor scrubber, wipe off any residue with a rag and rinse thoroughly. For a more powerful cleaning action, you can use the product in more concentrated form: 1 litre diluted in 10 (or 5) litres of water. 

Natural stone

Removing oily stains from marble

Is stained marble your nightmare? Oily and fatty stains are very difficult to remove and you always risk damaging the surface. But FILA has the answer: NOSPOT stain remover for marble effectively cleans all absorbent surfaces like marble and natural stone without damaging their finish. 

NOSPOT is a spray cleaner for marble, stone, terracotta, quarry tiles and concrete. It removes greasy and oily stains even from untreated surfaces. 

Removing stains from marble with NOSPOT

Clean the surface with NOSPOT sprayed directly onto the stain. Leave to dry for a few minutes, during which a fine white powder forms to capture the dissolved grease or fat. Brush the powder off and wipe over with a damp cloth. On waxed floors, you must now remove the finish from the entire affected tile and then wax it anew.

Porcelain and Ceramic

To remove graffiti and paint from porcelain or ceramic surfaces, use the special NOPAINT STAR gel cleaner.

Due to its viscous formulation, NOPAINT STAR is easy to apply even on walls. It not only removes graffiti and paint, but cleans outer walls damaged by smog and dust.


NOPAINT STAR is supplied ready to use; simply apply the undiluted product directly onto the surface with a brush or using the airless method. Leave it to act for at least 5 minutes. Then rub over with a rough cloth or sponge and rinse off. For best results, use a water jet cleaner on walls or floor scrubber on floors.

Alternatively, use PS87 diluted 1:5 in the same way. 

Natural stone

To remove graffiti and spray paint from marble and natural stone walls, we recommend using NOPAINT STAR.

NOPAINT STAR is a water based paint removing gel which is easy to apply even to vertical surfaces. It cleans and degreases outer walls thoroughly, and even cleans off damage due to smog and dust. 

Removing graffiti and paint with NOPAINT STAR 

It is easy to remove scrawlspaint and graffiti with NOPAINT STAR because the product is supplied ready to use. Apply NOPAINT STAR undiluted directly to the surface and leave it to act for at least 5 minutes. Then rub over with a sponge or cloth and rinse thoroughly. 

Alternatively, use PS87 degreaser diluted 1:5 in the same way.

You can then restore or finish the stain protection treatment with the product most suited to the material in question. 

Protecting a marble wall from graffiti

To protect marble or polished natural stone walls against graffiti, we recommend applying a coat of MP90 stain protector. MP90 is a graffiti protection treatment for vertical surfaces in polished stone which prevents the paint penetrating into the material, thus making it quick and easy to clean off, while maintaining the original beauty of the stone 

Terracotta, Quarry tiles and Brick

Removing graffiti from brick walls

 A brick wall is very porous and this makes it difficult to clean off scrawls, graffiti and paint. To simplify the job, FILA has created NOPAINT STAR wall cleaning gel.

NOPAINT STAR is a highly effective and quick acting water based paint remover which is easy to use thanks to its viscous formulation. It removes scrawls from treated and untreated walls in a few minutes and is especially suited to rough and porous surfaces (concrete walls, exposed brick, natural stone, and so on).  

Apply NOPAINT STAR undiluted directly to the wall and leave it to act for at least 5 minutes. Then rub the area over with a cloth or sponge and rinse off with water. You can also use PS87 diluted 1:5 in the same way. Then apply a stain protector treatment with the product best suited to the material in question. 

Concrete & Plaster

Removing graffiti from walls (graffiti, spray paint, felt tip pens)

Drawing graffiti on walls has become a favourite pastime for certain groups of youngsters. While some drawings and paintings may be genuine works of art, other are no more than scrawls which simply soil the walls and are an irritant for the occupants and owners of a building. If you have graffiti on your outer concrete or plaster walls, we recommend cleaning with NOPAINT STAR gel wall cleaner

NOPAINT STAR is a highly effective and quick acting water based paint remover which is easy to use thanks to its viscous formulation. It removes scrawls from treated and untreated walls in a few minutes and is especially suited to rough and porous surfaces (concrete walls, exposed brick, natural stone, and so on).  

Removing graffiti with NOPAINT STAR

To remove graffiti, apply NOPAINT STAR undiluted directly to the wall and leave it to act for at least 5 minutes, then rub it over with a sponge or cloth and rinse it off. You can also use PS87 diluted 1:5 in the same way.  

NOPAINT STAR also cleans outer walls of smog and dust stains.

Natural Stone

Alcohol, ammonia or bleach products have a bleaching effect on waxed surfaces.

If any of these substances have dripped onto your wax finished natural stone floor, forming white stains, use PS87 to dewax the entire surface. Rinse thoroughly with water.

When the surface is dry and clean, apply a new wax treatment: MATT* for a natural effect, SATIN* for a satin finish, and CLASSIC* or LONGLIFE* for a gloss finish. 

Terracotta, Quarry tiles and Brick

Alcohol, ammonia, bleach and other products containing these substances will bleach a waxed finish. If they are allowed to drip onto a wax finished terracotta floor, they can form white stains which are very difficult to remove.

The best solution is to use PS87 degreasing wax removing detergent, to dewax the entire affected tile. Rinse the tile off with water then, when it is dry and clean, apply a new wax treatment: MATT* for a natural effect, SATIN* for a satin finish, and CLASSIC* or LONGLIFE* for a gloss finish.

Porcelain and Ceramic

Porcelain and ceramic have poor absorbency and are easy to maintain, but certain stains are more obstinate and harder to remove. To remove candle wax from ceramic and porcelain tiles you can use ZERO SIL*: ideal for eliminating silicone, glue, sticky tape, old labels and polyurethane foam, it is also an effective way to remove candle wax, resin, and fatty or oily stains.

Apply ZERO SIL* undiluted over the entire stain, leave it to act for 20 minutes, then scrape it off with the spatula included in the kit. You can then pick up the residue with paper towel or a cloth.

Natural Stone

It can happen that candle wax drips onto a stone surface. 

To remove drips of wax, you can use ZERO SIL*: apply the undiluted product over the entire stain, leave it to act for 20 minutes, then scrape it off with the spatula included in the kit. You can then pick up the residue with paper towel or a cloth.

In the event of interior floors treated with wax, restore the finish after cleaning. 

Candles are perfect for decorating your home or for an intimate dinner party. But they can drip wax onto the floor, creating stains and deposits.

Terracotta, Quarry tiles and Brick

To clean wax off a terracotta floor, you need a special wax removing product.

To remove drips of wax, you can use ZERO SIL*: apply the undiluted product over the entire stain, leave it to act for 20 minutes, then scrape it off with the spatula included in the kit. You can then pick up the residue with paper towel or a cloth.

In the event of interior floors treated with wax, restore the finish after cleaning.

Porcelain and Ceramic

To remove coloured stains (coffee, wine, fruit juice, hair dye, ink, felt tip pens, etc.) from porcelain and ceramic surfaces, you can use SR95* stain remover.

SR95 completely removes stains which normal cleaning agents have no effect on. It is specifically designed for removing stains on natural stone (marble, travertine, agglomerate) and can also be used on polished stone without affecting its finish. it is also ideally suited for cleaning low absorption ceramic surfaces like porcelain and single-fired tiles with a rough surface.

Removing stains with SR95:

Pour the product directly onto the stain, leave it to act for around 15 minutes, then remove the residue with a damp sponge and rinse with water. If necessary, repeat the treatment.
Alternatively, use PS87 undiluted and leave it to act until it is completely dry. Then wash and rinse off the surface. 

Natural Stone 

Coloured stains on marble and natural stone are both very common and among the most difficult to remove! Who hasn't spilled a cup of coffee or wine from time to time? Whose children haven't dropped their fruit juice? Normal cleaning agents are often ineffectual, or leave residual stains.
The solution for removing coloured stains from marble and natural stone is SR95*, specifically designed for removing stains from natural stone and porcelain, as well as concrete and polished agglomerates, and for low absorbency ceramic in general. It completely eliminates the stains without damaging the material or its finish.

How do I use it?

Pour the product directly onto the stain, leave it to act for around 15 minutes, then remove the residue with a damp sponge and rinse with water. If necessary, repeat the treatment.
Alternatively, you can use PS87 diluted 1:5, using a sponge to apply it. Rinse thoroughly afterwards.

You can then restore or finish the stain protection treatment with the product most suited to the material in question. 

Terracotta, Quarry tiles and Brick

Terracotta floors are a classic, often used in kitchens and living rooms, both of which are heavily used by the family and form the heart of any home. But they are also areas in which the risk of staining is very high. Coffee and fruit juice spills are common, and children often stain the surface with felt tip pens or coloured inks.
To remove coloured stains from terracotta, SR95* is the perfect solution.

Pour the product directly onto the stain, leave it to act for around 15 minutes, then remove the residue with a damp sponge and rinse with water. If necessary, repeat the treatment. Alternatively, use PS87 diluted 1:5 with a sponge. Rinse the surface thoroughly afterwards.
You can then restore or finish the stain protection treatment with the product most suited to the material in question.

Porcelain and Ceramic

Dirt naturally accumulates in the joints between tiles, turning them black and unhygienic. To clean floor joints, we recommend using a non-aggressive alkaline product like PS87 PRO diluted 1:5-1:10 (1 litre of product per 5-10 litres of hot or lukewarm water), using a brush to remove the dirt. Rinse abundantly. For tiled walls, use the handy FUGANET spray detergent. Spray it onto the surface from about 15 cm away, then wipe over with an abrasive sponge and rinse off.

If the joints are heavily soiled, wash with DETERDEK PRO descaler diluted 1:10 (1 litre of product per 10 litres of hot or lukewarm water), using a brush. Rinse abundantly after treatment.

 Once the surface is dry and clean, you can protect the joints with FUGAPROOF eco-friendly stain protector.

You can find DETERDEK PRO detergent and FUGAPROOF stain protector in the FILA KIT CERAMICA, a kit of products designed specifically for maintaining

Natural stone

Dirt naturally accumulates in the joints, turning them black and unhygienic. To clean the joints in stone surfaces, we recommend using a non-aggressive alkaline product like FILAPS87 diluted 1:5-1:10 (1 litre of product per 5-10 litres of hot or lukewarm water), using a brush to remove the dirt. Rinse abundantly. 

Once the surface is dry and clean, you can finish off the stain protection treatment with the product most suited to the type of natural stone in question.

Terracotta, quarry tiles and brick

If your terracotta floor is becoming flaky or has white stains, it is likely that it is damaged by saline efflorescences due to rising damp. This is common with outdoor floors, where the damp due to absorption of rainwater or a poorly insulated substrate carries the salt dissolved in the water to the surface, where it becomes insoluble on contact with the air. 

To clean these efflorescences, use DETERDEK or FILAPHZERO* diluted 1:5 with water, and then rinse off. If the phenomenon occurs frequently, you can apply FILAES82* anti-efflorescence protector or the water-based HYDROREP ECO* ecological waterproofing treatment.

Natural stone

Many substances, such as vinegar, lemon, cola, wine and scale removers, are slightly acidic and damage the polish of marble and polished natural stone, leaving behind opaque stains. If the damage is light, the surface of the marble becomes matte and the effect can be seen against the light, while more serious damage results in white stains which are rough to the touch.

  • To restore small areas such as bathroom and kitchen tops, windowsills and so on, we recommend using the FILAMARBLE RESTORER kit.
  • For larger surfaces, like entire floors, we recommend using FILAKRISTALL.

Wall and Floor Coverings

Silver-Ion technology creates surfaces upon which 99.9% of microbes cannot survive. Laboratory and real-life testing has proved that the technology reduces microbes by 80% in just 15 minutes and 99.9% in just two hours. Working 24 hours, BioCote® technology effectively fights a wide variety of microbes. BioCote® has been proven effective against MRSA, E.Coli and even at deactivating the Influenza (H1N1) virus.

BioCote® technology, working 24-hours a day, for the expected lifetime of the product, to provide integral protection against microbes. Laboratory tests and real-life studies show that microbe levels on BioCote® protected products are significantly reduced. In fact, 80% of microbes are eradicated within 15 minutes and up to 99.99% are gone within 2 hours.

There are four main types of antimicrobial additive, based on Silver-Ion, Copper, Zinc and Organic technologies. Our range of antimicrobial products use Silver-Ion antimicrobial additives which are suitable for deployment in a broad range of materials and applications, including paints, coatings, textiles, polymers and other material types.

An antimicrobial is effective against a wide spectrum of microbes: this includes bacteria, mould, fungi and even viruses. An antibacterial, on the other hand, is only effective against bacteria.
Antimicrobial is used to describe substances which demonstrate the ability to reduce the presence of microbes, such as bacteria and mould.

Gypsum Plasterboards & Ceiling

Most of us do not take up home renovation projects as they are time-consuming. But, with the right planning and some creative interior design ideas, you can transform your home in no time. We’ll leave the planning up to you, but here are some home renovation tips that are quick to complete. 

Go for rich flooring

The floor enjoys the largest visual attention in a room. So if you’re thinking of renovation, don’t forget to consider your flooring. There are numerous ways to do up the flooring. One of the quickest ways to do so is to add designer tiles as they are a new trend. And if you do not want to change the flooring altogether, you can add a carpet that gives you a warm and pleasant feel.

Opt for a designer ceiling

Whatever your style, there is a false ceiling design for you. The best part about a ceiling design made using Gyproc plasterboard is that it is very easy to install and can be completed within a week. Hence, a designer ceiling can be installed in as much time, and sometimes even faster than what it takes to get your home painted. Getting a false ceiling design will definitely save time and give you long-lasting results, accompanied by a whole range of compliments!

Add some wallpapers

Putting up wallpapers is definitely quicker than painting your wall. Bold wallpaper in a small living room draws attention away from the size of the room and injects instant personality. Adding wallpaper to just one wall and keeping the others plain will give the interiors of your home better appeal.

Try implementing at least a few of these quick renovation ideas in your home. These quick-to-execute ideas can help bring about a significant change to the décor of your home but also make renovating something to look forward to. This way, you can give your house a makeover without undergoing long renovations that force you to stay away from home for irritating periods of time. Change the look of your home completely with Gyproc false ceiling design ideas.

A designer ceiling isn’t just home decor that enhances your home’s look but also helps reduce your household’s monthly expenses. Ceilings play a major part in the appearance of your home since it occupies the largest visual space. But while you consider a great ceiling design for your home renovation ideas to spruce up the boring old look, the icing on the cake is that you are also saving yourself money in the long run. That’s because designer ceilings affect the temperature and light in your house. Read on to find out how. 

Reduce AC loads

We all use air conditioners, especially in summers, to beat the heat. Air conditioning, however, is an energy-intensive process. Designer ceilings optimize your air conditioning usage and reduce those inflated summer electricity bills. For example, if your room is 12 x 12 sq. ft. and your false ceiling is one foot below the actual ceiling, it will cut down 12 x 12 x 1 cubic space that would otherwise have needed to be cooled by the AC, reducing your energy bill.

False ceilings are suspended a few inches below the slab on a metal framework which can be made of any construction material, based on the budget. Since there is a gap between the two layers, the air within is trapped. This acts as insulation that keeps your room cool by preventing the heat from outside coming in. And this, in turn, further reduces your AC load.

What’s more, since the air-filled insulation between the two layers of ceilings keeps the room naturally cool, you often don’t need to use the air conditioner at all!

Lower lighting costs

As per a 2015 study on residential energy consumption, lighting consumption contributes around 30% of the residential energy consumption in India. In fact, lighting costs contribute to 10-20% of our homes’ total electricity bill. A big advantage of installing designer ceilings is that instead of using tube lights inside your room, you get to use high quality LED lights that consume less energy and are far more durable. Based on your ceiling design, you could fix LED lights creatively in various corners of the house and use as much light as you require while saving on energy and costs.

In addition, designer ceilings can be highly reflective. This decreases the amount of light needed to illuminate the room. You can now use fewer lights to achieve the same brightness in your room and save money on your electricity bill.

So if you have false ceiling ideas, but the expense has been worrying you, remove your fears now! In the long run, you will save on renovation, air conditioning and lighting costs. With Gyproc’s range of false ceiling ideas and solutions, you are sure to find the ceiling design that matches your style and your home’s décor.

Building a wall isn’t the only way of dividing a space. Very often a room needs to divide into smaller areas designated to specific tasks based on your needs. For example, you may not want a separate living room and dining room but the space division still needs to be quite obvious. You could do this by varying flooring types and heights, visual screens, or even by your ceiling design.

The function of a ceiling is not just to cover the underside of the roof structure, they also play an important role in the acoustic and thermal comfort of a room. That said, ceiling ornamentation isn’t purely decorative either. One of the smartest ways of managing your visual space through ceiling design is by using false ceilings. To create a false ceiling, gypsum board is suspended from the original ceiling. Curves, steps, and other designer ceiling options for space management can be achieved with Gyproc, a pioneer in false ceilings.

Suspended Ceilings

There are two primary reasons for when a drop ceiling or suspended ceiling is to be designed. One is to create a provision for concealed lights and the other is to divide spaces. A dropped ceiling that is the same size as the bed automatically creates a space meant only for the bed. This is especially useful in large bedrooms that incorporate a study desk area or a small sit-out within the room. Similarly, dropping the ceiling above the dining table and suspending a chandelier from it can create a visual divider in a large living-dining room.

The interior design and appearance of a school, college or university is crucial in creating the optimum environment for both students and staff. Gyproc systems allow the designer maximum flexibility to meet different standards of performance, different heights and even to improve aesthetics with eye-catching curves that reduce the ‘institutional’ feel of the building. 

Dealing with services and fixtures 

The ability to accommodate services and pipework within and behind our partition, lining and ceiling systems means it is easy to maintain clean building lines and to accommodate heavier pipes and flush tanks where needed. When it comes to fixtures, it’s easy to accommodate planned loads at the design stage and unplanned loads using a range of specially designed fasteners’. We have a complete library of sample details that we are happy to share with customers.

Because the UAE does not suffer the extremes of temperature and rainfall common in many European countries, moisture control is often ignored when designing educational buildings. However, high levels of humidity in the external air and high interior/exterior temperature differentials mean warm, moist air condenses as it enters our buildings, and can quickly cause mold. Daily activities like laboratory experiments, indoor sports, bathing and even breathing, create more moisture to add to the problem. Damp and mold can have devastating long term effects, not only on the building structure but on the health of students and staff - moisture and mold control measures must be included when designing the building. 


  • If not properly controlled, moisture can cause staining and mold growth on internal walls and ceilings and can reduce the thermal performance of wall and roof structures. It can eventually lead to corrosion of steel components, chemical deterioration of linings, finishes, ceiling tiles and even deterioration of concrete and masonry.
  • Damp, humid atmospheres create ideal breeding grounds for fungi, bacteria and dust mites which thrive on damp walls and ceilings, furnishings and carpets, and which, once they take hold can be extremely difficult to eradicate. The resultant uncomfortable and unhealthy internal conditions can promote asthma and lung problems, potentially affecting the long-term health of students and staff. 

Can I prevent moisture damage? 

It is important to both reduce the opportunity for moisture to enter the school building from outside, through airtight construction techniques and by creating positive internal pressure: and to address the issue of moisture generated inside the building. This can be achieved by the use of fresh air systems which reduce the need for air conditioning and localized moisture control measures. Particular attention must be paid to tiled areas, such as science laboratories, gyms, showers, kitchens, etc., where water penetration through gaps and degeneration of grout is not generally obvious until tiles fall away from the wall, by which time the underlying structure could have suffered serious damage. High-performance moisture and mold resistant internal lining systems, such as the new Gyproc M2TECH, moisture and mold resistant system, should be specified at the design stage to prevent difficult and expensive repairs in the future.

Indoor air quality is becoming increasingly important today, as airtight construction techniques and reductions in natural ventilation, introduced as part of a move to lower energy consumption and reduce air conditioning demands in buildings, allow a build-up of pollutants in the stale internal air. The pollutants, which are generated by everyday activities, such as cleaning and cooking, and by glues and other chemicals used in floor and wall coverings, cleaning products, furniture and medical equipment etc., can cause a range of physical and medical problems from eye irritation, coughs and breathing difficulties, to longer term health problems – particularly in students with respiratory issues.


Studies demonstrate that indoor air is often more polluted than outdoor air. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) can be inhaled, causing a negative effect on students’ ability to concentrate. 

  • So common has the problem of indoor air pollution become that we’ve adopted a new term – Sick Building Syndrome (SBS). This is used to explain the situation where occupants experience acute health problems linked to time spent in a building, for which no specific illness or cause can be identified. In 1984, the World Health Organization suggested that up to 30% of all buildings worldwide may be affected.
  • Nearly 50% of respiratory illnesses, including asthma, are caused or aggravated by poor indoor air. Airborne formaldehyde acts as an irritant to the conjunctiva and upper and lower respiratory tract. It is also proven that formaldehyde poses a potential health threat for cancer, according to the World Health Organization (WHO).


Reducing indoor air pollution

It is sensible to consider ways of improving air changes in the building at the design stage, such that exhausted, polluted internal air is regularly replaced by clean fresh air from outside. It is not enough to simply open windows and doors to increase ventilation, as this rarely, if ever, provides the level of air change required, and also allows in warm air and pollutants from outside. A careful selection of all building materials is also crucial. Following a recent breakthrough by Saint-Gobain, it is now possible to install wall and ceiling linings, incorporating new Activ’Air technology, that will actively remove 70% of the aldehydes present in ambient indoor air, bringing levels of this damaging pollutant to well within the limits suggested by the World Health Organisation – leaving the air much cleaner and healthier.

Fire protection is one of the biggest issues with any project, not only to provide fire safety for people but to protect the building and its contents, including expensive equipment and valuable school records and ensure continuity of operation. As in any building, achieving the required level of fire safety requires careful consideration at the earliest design stage. It involves a combination of good design and careful selection of tested systems 

Fire performance 

The fire performance of a non-loadbearing partition or ceiling is divided into two elements:

  1. 1) Fire insulation – the ability of the structure to prevent temperature rise to the ‘cold’ face, and
  2. 2) Fire integrity – its ability to remain intact and therefore prevent the passage of flame & smoke. 

Gypsum plasterboard provides excellent levels of fire insulation thanks to the inherent properties of the gypsum core, which releases water on exposure to fire, thereby delaying temperature rise. For even higher performance, specialist fire boards, like Gyproc FireStop, incorporate glass fiber and other additives within the core to improve core cohesion and strength for enhanced integrity and fire protection. Gyproc systems and all of their individual components (metal framework, plasterboard linings and fixings) are designed and fully tested to work together to provide a set level of both fire insulation and integrity.


High performance lightweight Gyproc systems provide equivalent levels of impact resistance at a fraction of the weight and without the construction and drying out delays associated with masonry. They also offer greater flexibility in providing different levels of impact resistance, preventing costly over-engineering, which can impact on both project viability and scheduling, whilst minimizing ongoing maintenance and replacement costs. The use of durable linings is strongly recommended by all Regional Authorities. Durable linings are specified by ESTIDAMA and contribute 1 point in the PEARL rating system or adding valuable LEED points.

Gyproc wall and partition systems are rigorously tested for impact resistance to BS 5234 and offer the flexibility to achieve all four levels of Duty rating, subject to the type and thickness of the lining board used. All will provide moderate resistance for low-risk areas, whilst higher performance linings, such as Gyproc FireStop and DuraLine, will meet the more demanding requirements in corridors and high traffic areas. For very high-risk areas, our GypWall ROBUST system has been specially developed to offer ultimate impact performance with just a single layer plasterboard lining.

Cost optimisation and budget control are crucial factors in any project, in order to deliver the best quality and value for money. When considering individual elements, such as internal walls and ceilings, it is important to consider the total installed cost, rather than just cost of materials, as the labour and other costs associated with light weight systems are generally significantly lower than equivalent masonry systems. With heavy masonry systems, for instance, it is also easy to overlook costs such as scaffolding, storage and additional delivery costs, and even the cost of providing a water supply - items which are generally not required when using drywall systems.

• Drywall systems one up to 10 times lighter than masonry
• Lightweight drywall systems can provide savings upto 20% on structural costs
• Less foundations, thinner slabs, greater spaces
• 50-70% saving in program time • Ceilings are installed earlier
• MEP works is simpler, cleaner and quicker
• Far less remedial work • Same performance as masonry in much thinner systems
• Much greater performance in the same width • No reinforcing columns, beams or listels required
• Drywall partitions are adjustable
• Useable floor space is increased by average of 5% using Gyproc drywall systems


• Weight savings can reduce cost of structural support and foundations
• Time savings in installation can reduce project duration and costs
• Thinner Partitions increases available floor space and can reduce overall building footprint requirement.
• Reduction in vehicle use and costs for deliveries to and around the site.
• Reduced safety risks from moving vehicles and congestion on site.
• Reduction in storage base requirements

Total installed cost (TIC) models

Although, at first sight, blockwork may appear to be a cheaper option, lightweight systems deliver huge savings at all stages of the construction process, from delivery costs to site, less costly foundation and support requirements, to faster and easier installation, so typically provide a much more cost effective option on a total installed cost basis. Our specialists can provide assistance with TIC models, in order to maximise savings on construction costs

Drywall systems bring together rigid metal frameworks with linings of environment-friendly plasterboard, to provide high performance, flexible, tested wall, partition lining and ceiling systems to meet the demanding requirements of schools and education buildings – from simple single-storey extensions to complex, multi-function facilities and high rise developments.

In most developed countries, they are replacing old traditional timber and masonry construction methods, due to their speed of construction, flexibility and ability to provide exceptionally high levels of performance in key areas, such as fire protection and thermal and acoustic insulation.

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